The Value of Coke

I have a distinct memory of walking around the dusty streets of Narok, a small Kenyan city, full of strewn garbage and crumbling concrete. The sky was clear, the air was hot and dry. People eyed me with suspicion. I was uncomfortable, physically and mentally. I bought a bottle of Coke from the corner store. The refrigerator rattled away, but barely managed to chill the stained bottles. I remember the Coke was delicious and it tasted like home.

I was thinking about that experience my first day in Brazil. Nate, Chu and I had been walking the hilly streets of Sao Paulo in the sweaty mid-day heat. My body felt a little out of sorts, partly from the new environment and partly from restless night I spent on the plane. I was hot, thirsty, and tired, so when Chu suggested that we stop for a Coke, I didn't waste time locating the nearest cafe. I shared my sentiments: "Coke is one of the most comforting drinks in the world. You can find it in any country."

Nate, always opinionated an unapologetic, incites arguments without hesitation. He tells people what they don't want to hear. I think most people really love this about him. It's a beautiful thing to watch him cut through the extraneous information of an argument and spell out the heart of an issue. I had been in Brazil for no less than four hours and he was already kicking off an argument that would continue for the rest of my trip.

Brazil has a kind of national soft drink called Guarana, which is named after the Amazonian berry that gives it its sweet, citrus flavor. It's loaded with caffeine and is very popular. Nate immediately pointed out that my nostalgia for Coke was preventing me from trying a more superior beverage, and I should be ashamed of myself for supporting a large multi-national conglomerate which not only exploits resources and people, but literally destroys every culture it touches. It was all a bit dramatic.

I was a little surprised at his tone. I was pretty sure that it was Chu, not me, who had suggested that we get a Coke. That was the word she used, "Coke", not "Guarana", not "something cold to drink", she said "Coke". We quibbled back and forth. I was said that it wasn't a big deal, and he held his position. I eventually lost patience him. "Look man, I'm going to try some Guarana just as soon as I feel like it. But right now I feel like having a Coke, and that what's I'm going to drink. Get off your pedestal, this nonsense about Coke being an evil company. Are you telling me that you've never bought gasoline supplied by an oil company that wasn't responsible for raping the land of a third world country with no regard for the rightful owners?"
"I just think you're making a big mistake, that's all."
That's how the conversation went every time we bought something to drink. I started buying Coke out of spite.


Later I learned what had spurred the argument. Coke is producing their own guarana-based drink and constricting business for the Brazilian-based soft drink through exclusivity contract agreements with vendors. Coke had also bought up a bottling facility in Chu's hometown, only to shut it down and send everyone home. Boo-hoo though. I didn't come to Brazil to defend the dynamics of the free market. Not to mention that Nate and Chu were hypocrites in the matter. In addition to occasional Coke consumption, they very frequently purchased bottled water produced by Coke-owned companies. There was no way I was going to concede this argument, especially when Coke is so wonderful and delicious.

A few days later we were returning from an all-day boat trip. We passed a convenience store and I noticed an ice cream freezer sitting near the door. I had a flashback accompanied by another nostalgic craving. When I was in China, I somehow got addicted to ice-cream-on-a-stick. I ate one everyday during that hot China summer, and seeing that freezer made me need one at that moment. We had spent all day in the sun and there nothing that was going to relieve my agony like a frozen vanilla ice cream bar with chocolate fudge in the middle. Nate protested. He assured me that I could find some homemade ice cream in one of the shops in town.
"Yeah, but I don't want homemade ice cream. I want an ice cream bar."
"You're telling me that you would rather have some inferior piece of garbage from Nestle Corporation than fresh homemade ice cream?!"
"Yes, that's what I'm telling you. "
Profound disappointment.

Days later the Coke conversation came up again. I asked Nate why it was ok for Chu to love the iconic Brazilian soft drink but it wasn't ok for me to love the iconic soft drink of America. He blew up. "If we were in the U.S., you could drink Coke until your eyes turned black! But we're in BRAZIL!"
I smiled. It was time for a peace offering.

When I travel, I like to bring at least one book related to travel or travel writing. There is something powerful in reading something that parallels your current existence, and it's a good way to frame and affirm your experiences. My travel book for this trip was: A Sense of Place - Great travel writers talk about their craft, lives and inspiration. If you like you the "travel writing" genre, this book is an amazing compilation of interviews with some of the truly great travel writers of our time. I couldn't recommend it enough.

I gave Nate the book and opened it to an interview with Frances Mayes (author of "Under the Tuscan Sun").

That sense of discovery is why I travel. I don't want anything pre-digested to guide me through a place. Remain open, I think, as much as you can. Of course, we always carry our prejudice with us to some extent, but I hate it when people come here and they want Coca-Cola all the time, they bring their candy bars. It's just so bad not to leave everything you can behind and see what's out there that you don't know.

It was too perfect not to share. Me and my Coca-Cola and my ice cream bars. And I call myself a traveler. I'm a disgrace.

As it turns out, Guarana is quite delicious, but would I forsake Coke? No chance.